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So you got a flashlight with your last M12, M18, or v28 kit purchase, but you bought before they started shipping LED lights as standard. Then you (or someone else, *cough*Sean*cough*) drops it off the back of a truck and dinks out the little incandescent bulb. You could swap in another incandescent, but more and more often now we’re seeing in-place LED replacement parts like the one pictured above. It’s compatible with pretty much any of the existing Milwaukee incandescents, but we’ve even heard of people swapping it in for other similarly-shaped and -sized bulbs.
The performance benefit is pretty obvious: Not only do you get about three times as much runtime (the LED draws a lot less current), it’s MUCH less drop sensitive and will hold up for longer than you probably care to own it — 50,000+ hours.
That’s the good news, of course. Here’s the bad: Expect to pay $25 to $30 for it — about what you’d pay for a new light. That begs two questions: First, is the LED element really the biggest expense in a light? It wouldn’t surprise me if it was, but I definitely wonder. And second, if it’s not, why not offer these on the cheap? Seems like a good idea to me. Have any of you found cheaper replacement alternatives? I can’t imagine there aren’t some out there.
LED Upgrade 49-81-0090 [Milwaukee]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

I ran across one of these through a crazy Amazon recommendation this week, and I wondered what my fellow Toolmongers think of them — assuming you’ve heard of them before, which I hadn’t. I’m writing, of course, of the Japanese carpenter knife, pictured above.
From what I can tell, the defining qualities of these knives are their curved blade shape and simple folding mechanism. The blade is somewhat reminiscent of a sword, which appeals to some. But what’s really appealing to me about these is their apparent utility. The blade looks super-useful as it’s wide and long enough to accurately cut and provides a nice, sharp point that’d be handy for scribing or making tiny cuts of any kind.
Most of the knives I found are similar to the model Amazon first recommended to me, featuring a metal body and a thumb rest “locking” mechanism. Virtually all of them also include a hole in the back for “storage or a lanyard.” Sean, by the way, wrote a nice piece a while back on how to make a knife lanyard – instructions which I still follow.
You can find these at most of the major tool outlets. Lee Valley carries one with a brass handle and what looks like a steel thumb rest. It features a 4″ long blade hardened to Rc60. The knife overall is fairly large: 8-3/4″ open, 5-1/4″ closed. Garrett Wade carries what looks like a very similar, but slightly smaller at 4-1/4″ folded, knife (for about the same price of $25). And if you’re concerned with the brass turning your hands colors, Cooper Hewitt offers one with what appears to be a steel handle. And, of course, there’s the Amazon knife [What’s This?] (from the Duluth Trading Company) that first drew my attention. It’s shiny with a kind of interesting wavy design down the side — and a bit cheaper at $18 (as of today, anyway).
I think what really interests me about these is that they look very practical, and though they seem to have some tradition behind them, they’re not overblown and over-priced. That bears some explanation, I think. Consider this:
A long time back I wanted to learn how to make fettucini Alfredo. I was convinced it was a magic dish, so I tried all sorts of complex recipes and crazy techniques to make it. Then one day (and a good twelve-week cooking school later) a thought struck me: This is freakin’ comfort food. People didn’t make fettucini Alfredo to show off. They made it because it used ingredients they had in abundance and because it was easy. So I tried some simple methods and found the magic I sought. (Add al dente pasta to melted butter, add cream and copious fresh-grated parmesan, toss.)
I think knife makers (and collectors) often approach knives the way I used to approach the Alfredo: they want it to be special, so they overcomplicate it and then revere it in an extreme fashion. That just doesn’t really interest me as much anymore. I want the real Alfredo, which in knife terms means something that is tradition because it works, not important because it’s tradition. Know what I mean?

When I was a kid, my father put together a great metal toolbox for me, complete with what I now realize was a mix of mechanic’s and household tools — perfect for, say, working on my bike or building small projects. I don’t have a picture of it, but I remember that it was a mid-sized metal box similar to the one pictured above. As an adult, though, I find myself increasingly assembling tool kits on the fly for household or mobile projects, and recently I’ve favored tool bags for that application. That got me to thinking: What do you use to carry your tools, and more importantly, why?
It seems to me that like with any tool, the proper storage tool is the one that most perfectly matches the application. For example, my kiddie tool box served mostly as a tool chest, holding my tools much the way roll-aways do now. I rarely carried the box itself around, instead keeping it in the spot Dad cleared off for it and putting my tools back in it when I was done. For my mobile jobs now, I’m pretty much exclusively carrying the bag around. I load it up with whatever it is I need, do the job, then return the tools to their permanent storage locations.
But I’ve noticed that over the last few months some tools tend to stay in the bag(s) more than they do in the cabinets. I’m talking about tools like a couple of basic standard and Phillips screwdrivers, a small tack hammer, a measuring tape, a mid-sized and large adjustable wrench, some wire clippers, and so on — all the stuff I need to hang pictures, plan projects, fix the toilet, and so on. So I’m tempted to load up some of my spares into a full-time kit for just that purpose.
I’m interested in use cases far outside of my own, though. For example, what about guys who carry a fixed kit every day? My HVAC guy comes to mind. I saw him lugging a mid-sized box with a small variety of tools perfect for A/C work. I can’t help but think that maybe he’d be better served by a bag as he could just toss the tools in when he’s done (which he tried to do with the box over and over). Also, the bag is a lot easier to carry. Then again, he may have thought of this and rejected it for reasons I don’t understand.
What do you think?
We return to the mic to discuss recent posts and projects including new LED light options, Chuck’s severe shelving issue, and whiteboard options. Remember: You can call in your own questions and opinions to 214-296-9229. (Podcast Download)
According to Top Gear on the History channel last year (yes, we know the Brit version is better; move on) you can grab a $500 ride almost anywhere that looks like crap but has a heart of gold. Some car shows do, and it’s good TV. But when these guys tried it two years ago they got about as far as you might expect. Jalopnik posted the “totally awesome” carnage from YouTube that may actaully be funnier than U.S. Top Gear’s attempt.
Our question is, can you even grab a $500 car than runs reliably? Normally after hearing that question everyone will wax poetic about a cheap-ass car they got on the super deal “this one time.” That’s not what we’re talking about. Most people stumble across a deal or two like that eventually, if given enough time. The trick is, if you had to go out today and find one, could you, and where would you go for it?
Sure, most people under thirty or forty will head straight to Craigslist and hope for the best, but that’s really not reliable. What if it’s a no-go? We had some thoughts on that, most of which led us to bad parts of town, junkyard piece-togethers, and auctions.
Surprisingly, the most reliable way around here in North Texas is the ”down home” word-of-mouth deals. We found a ragged ’88 Monte Carlo with a 350 V8 that is actually running at this moment for $475, and only about 50 miles away. So what works best around your little corner of the automotive world?
How much awesome can you buy for $500? [Jalopnik]
Totally Awesome Car Rally 2010 [YouTube]
We love palm routers. There is something about the size versus the power that makes them perfect for many applications in the shop. We’ve put our Bosch Colt to the test without fail for over 5 years now and been impressed each time. Now Makita is moving in with a compact router of their own in the RT0700C and its 3-base, combo kit RT0700CX3. It seems Makita is taking direct aim at the Bosch. Their model is roughly the same form factor, same power, RPM range, and pricing at just north of $130. I want one.
Not because I’m displeased with my Colt in any way — I’m not, but because the winner in these product dominance battles is normally us, the consumers. Check out these specs and see if they sound vaguely familiar.
With the 3 base kit, which we’re sure will add a Jackson or two, it’s around the same price as the Colt all dolled up, and has the same power with possibly more options. Unless it is junk construction (and coming from Makita, we doubt it) this looks like a hat thrown in ring. It also boasts a quarter of a horsepower more than the Bosch; we’re curious if that translates to torque and real power or if it’s just a paper numbers game.
Either way we hope to find out — soon.
RT0700C [Makita]
RT0700C in Action [YouTube]
Well, crap. Despite our skepticism and even our best efforts to get the thing to fail, our Hero Heater has made it through the winter. It’s just difficult to to find something bad to say about the damn thing. It’s small, well mannered (quiet), easy on the ears, and lightweight; it sips fuel and the battery lasts more than a full day in the shop without a recharge.
We loaned it out to other shops and tradesmen; we let it sit for a month to see if the battery would drain out; and we started it up cold every day for about a month and change, and not once did it fail to start at the first press of a button. It keeps the shop (two-car garage with the door cracked) warm enough to work in, even when temperatures are close to freezing outside.
We give. It’s solid. The funny part is, the four people we loaned to bought one after they gave it back, which, at $150 for the Hero and $20-$30 for the propane, is no small endorsement. Well done, Little Hero.
Mr. Heater Hero [Website]
Hero Heater [Toolmonger]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

Remember how we pointed out some of the benefits of Bosch entering the micro-recip market? Here’s another benefit: more blade selection. Not surprisingly, Bosch recently announced a line of blades to go along with their new saw. Bosch calls ‘em “pocket blades,” by the way, which seems like a cool idea to us. Since they share the same mounting system as standard recip blades, we’re totally guilty of slapping Milwaukee’s Hackzall blades in our standard recip for cutting jobs that don’t require the standard 6″ to 12″ reach. (And once or twice we’ve mounted full-sized blades on a micro-recip when it happened to be close at hand.) Of course, Bosch’s new blades will work with any standard recip mount, including full-size saws and both their (and Milwaukee’s) micro-recips.
We’re most excited, however, to see the beginnings of the same kind of competition we’ve enjoyed for years in full-sized blades arrive for the smaller set. Hobbyists will likely buy whatever’s closest at the shop when they burn through the freebie blades packaged with their saw, and daily users will seek out the blade with the best price/performance balance for their application. Now they have the choice.
We haven’t seen any pricing on these yet, but it’s a fair bet they’ll end up about the same as similar larger blades. Big question, though: Who’s next? We’d love to see a micro recip in the DeWalt 12V MAX line. And how ’bout some “pocket” blades in the meantime? The more the merrier, at least as far as we consumers are concerned.

I have a lot of books. No, really. A lot of books. And up until recently they’ve been piled around my house in all sorts of places. Sean and I started building bookcases back closer to when I first moved in, but we ended up getting involved in other things (like starting TM, for example). Between lack of time and lack of funding, I never really got enough built to hold even half of my book stash. So a few weeks back, I decided to go for broke and just slap whatever I had to on the walls to hold up shelves (and books). To that end, I posted here asking TM readers where I’d find the best deal on bulk shelf brackets.
Of course, TM readers are way smarter than that.
TM reader David chimed in instead with a suggestion that I build what he called “Hungarian shelves,” complete with a link to an Instructable on the process. Others chimed in on the Hungarian recommendation, so I gave it a look — and I was shocked. What a great idea! Basically, these Hungarian shelves consist of vertical pieces notched to hold notched shelves. The verticals screw to the wall through the notches, then the shelves fit in place with a little help from shims as needed. Result: extremely strong and stable shelves with no visible fasteners. As a bonus, you can easily build them with cheap dimensional lumber and almost no tools. Above you see a pictured of my project, adapted from the Instructable concept.
Yep, that’s a 10′ x 10′ set of 10 shelves that cost me a grand total of just under $200 and was damn easy to build.
The verticals are 2×6 lumber, though we ripped them down to more like 4-1/2″ because the circ saw we had handy seemed more accurate when it was set at 2-1/2″ for cutting the notches. In the future I’d just use 2x4s, which would offer plenty of horizontal support. (You need far less overhang than you might think with this system.) We made all the cuts in the project with a $30 circ saw and a came-with-the-saw framing blade. For the vertical rips (which you could easily avoid), we clamped a straight piece of steel to the board as a guide.
To cut the notches, we simply stood the board on end with a couple of clamps, cut the edges with the circ saw, then chopped the middle out with multiple cuts. Sure, it’s probably a little hard on the saw’s bearings, but hey — it’s a $30 circ saw. Even if we destroyed it, it’d be a small price to pay for the project. But even after cutting 120 notches, the saw seems fine.
Assembly is easy. We lined ours up to studs, but unless you live in earthquake territory, you could totally get away with attaching some of the verticals with molly bolts. Even if the final project loaded up weighed 1,500 lbs., because there are 60 (!) fasteners in the system, each would bear only ~25 lbs. In my case, I just picked up some 4″ drywall screws, pre-drilled the verticals in the notches, and screwed them right to the studs, placing one screw into the stud in the middle, then adjusting the vertical to bubble-center with a level, shooting a screw in the top to make sure I still hit stud, then filling in the rest. I cheated by installing the verticals first, then marking my shelves directly from the mounted verticals and cutting the notches as I fit each shelf. The shelves, by the way, are 1x10s with a 1×12 on the very bottom.
The beauty of this system is in the design. Because of the way they lock together, very little accuracy is required in any cut. If you get the notches aligned within an 1/8″ or so, they fit great and you really can’t see the resulting gaps much — especially when you actually put books on the shelves. In fact, a little mis-fit seems to make them fit tightly and hold in place well. We used a deadblow hammer and a towel to pound in the tough-fit shelves, and shimmed the shelves to level with a couple packages of pre-cut shims. These shelves would be easy to remove, too, and the small holes created by the drywall screws would be easy to fill. If a shelf sags or breaks, it’d be easy to un-shim it, pull it out, and replace it.
So David, thanks for the hella-great idea. It turned my family room — which stood for years as a big, ugly box of a room that only saw use when we had lots of people over — into my new favorite place in the house. There’s really nothing cooler than being surrounded by your books and your cool stuff, as proven by the fact that we now spend a lot of time there.

In my neighborhood you’ll find fences of almost every possible (wood) construction, from basic no-gap picket fences (like mine) built with the cheapest pre-assembled panels and 4×4 wood posts that builders could source to mega-buck 8′ board-on-board fences with outside-the-yard metal posts and fancy cap/floor finishing. Certainly if one had an unlimited amount of cash to spend, the latter would make a lot of sense. But how do these fences really rate in terms of value? And what features, if any, make more of a difference than others when it comes to function and longevity? I have a few ideas, but as I’ve owned exactly one fence (which is cheap and rotting, by the way), I thought it’d make more sense to ask TM readers who’ve maybe experienced a little trial and error.
That said, it seems to me that the board-on-board fences don’t seem to experience the same sagging problem that I see with picket fences. Mine is only six years old, yet the crosspieces are already bowed heavily, which means the boards themselves look staggered as hell. Some of my neighbors have simply capped theirs, adjusting the cap to hide the stagger, but that strikes me as a somewhat lame solution, at least if you’re planning to stay in the house. Does anyone happen to know of any other advantages to the caps in terms of functionality?
Footers look really nice, but won’t they pretty much rot at the same rate as the fence itself? I figure the only way to really make a difference when it comes to rotting would be to pour a concrete footer around the entire fence line, which (while cool) would be incredibly expensive. There’s got to be a better way to deal with this. Maybe clear out the undergrowth and treat the ground?
Clearly metal posts make a lot more sense. My wood posts have rotted out pretty heavily, and during heavy rain/wind combinations a couple of them have even started to lean. Still, I wonder if selecting better quality wood might make wood posts last a bit longer.
Finally, any recommendations on fence material? The only options I see here are cheap-ass-whatever-they-got-cheaply or cedar.
Thanks in advance for your ideas, and if the response warrants it, maybe I’ll follow up with some additional research and posts. I’m not in a position to do anything for myself fence-wise right now, but I’ve seen a lot of people go through the process, and I think a little sharing on this subject would do a lot of readers (including me) some good when it does come time to do it ourselves.

Milwaukee has indeed made good on their promise to join DeWalt in entering the hand tool market under their power-tool-famous brand, and one of their new products even made it into our Favorites of 2011 list. This drywall saw caught my attention as well as a potential replacement for my Husky 5-in-1 drywall tool. Honestly, I hate the Husky, except for one thing: it works. It’s ugly, it’s awkward, and it looks like a Swiss Army knife designed for a two-year-old. But it does a great job of making accurate holes in drywall, so it gets a good bit of use around my house.
But when I sit down and really think about it, I spend probably 80% of my time with the Husky using the saw and the rasp. Considering that I have at least a dozen utility knives around the house, maybe a saw/rasp combination makes more sense.
This tool doesn’t exactly require a lot of explanation. It’s a saw, and it’s sharp enough to jab in to make its own pilot hole. The real difference between this and the jab saw I lost years ago is that Milwaukee cut four small slots into the saw’s blade, angling the edges to make what looks to be a pretty effective rasp. (For those of you who don’t accidentally knock holes in your walls often enough to need regular patching, the process generally consists of cutting out a roughly square hole then rasping down the edges bit by bit to square them off and/or make a perfect fit for your patch — or in-wall speaker or whatever it is you’re installing.)
Of course, each rasp style offers some advantages. The Milwaukee’s narrow rasp will work much better for adjusting hole shape in tiny amounts or for quickly widening a small hole. The Husky’s wide, flat rasp does a great job of straightening out long cuts, but is way too big to fit into smaller holes. So in the end, maybe I just need both.
Expect to pay around $10 for these in stores. In the short run, I think I’ll pick one up to toss in my household tool caddy. In the long run, I think I’ll end up ditching the 5-in-1 for a good jab saw, a nice long/flat rasp, and a quality utility knife.
Rasping Jab Saw [Milwaukee]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]
Where blades like Case are often more stylish and fancy of handle, Buck tends to take the shortest distance between two points as far as luxury and looks — their philosophy tends to lean toward function over form. We’ve always liked that. In fact, for roughly two decades, my favorite “carry knife” was a Buck grey mini. The Lux Pro is a few steps up from the mini but serves about the same purpose — a lightweight, lockback blade that doesn’t scream “problem child” if it comes out of your pocket in polite company.
The 3 3/4″ frame (closed) is constructed of steel wrapped in titanium with a carbon fiber inset to form the handle. The opening stud on the 2 1/2″ drop point blade is small but functional, and presents a very thin and elegant appearance. The two screws at the back secure a belt clip. Its appearance rides the line between the “tactical” look and a boardroom head turner, but manages to come out just a shade on the business side.
Buck’s website suggests this is a $130 blade; however, most sites seem to offer this up at around $70-$80 without much of an issue.
Lux Pro [Buck]
Street Pricing [Google Shopping]

I remember years back when the only people making a vibrating multi-tool was Fein — charging a whopping pretty penny for it, too. Now you can buy similar products from just about every manufacturer in both corded and cordless versions. And Makita’s joined the party, too, with their catchy-named LXMT025, pictured above. This version is cordless, integrated into Makita’s 18V line. Yeah, it’s pretty much like all the others. But nothing drives innovation like competition, and this definitely represents more competition.
Specs look pretty similar to the rest: variable speed control, 6,000 to 20,000 OPM (orbits per minute), and a 3.2 degree oscillation angle. You also get a barrel-grip form factor, which should be familiar to anyone who’s used any of the similar models from other manufacturers. Street pricing looks to start around $320 for the kit, which includes the tool, two batteries, and a charger. Makita says the tool will be available as a bare tool as well, but we haven’t seen it sold online as such yet. Expect it in the near future — good news for those of you looking for one of these to accompany your existing 18V Makita collection.
LXMT025 Cordless Multi-Tool [Makita]
Street Pricing [Google]

So Bosch now offers not just one but two different masonry bit designs: Bulldog bits, designed for fast drilling through light-to-normal weight concrete, and now also a tougher line targeted for use in “reinforced concrete or harsh aggregate.” They call it the Bulldog Xtreme.
Cheesy X-name aside, this bit sounds like it has some design pedegree. For example, the new bit features a solid-head carbide design, which Bosch claims helps it drill more quickly through nasty stuff (like rebar) while wearing down less at the same time as compared to other carbide-tipped bits. And Bosch utilizes a variety of manufacturing technologies to make the Xtreme, too, including a “proprietary diffusion-bonding technology” and a “high-heat, high-pressure solid state welding process” to keep the bits’ carbide and steel in one piece.
Also of interest: a bit shape design that incorporates a conical tip into the flutes in a way that Bosch suggests produces rounder holes — the better for setting anchors or fasteners.
I know. All this jargon gets boring fast (pun intended). But hey — if the bit actually works better, it really does make a difference to those who drill more than one or two holes at a time, which includes the majority of masonry pros. We haven’t tried ‘em out yet, but we look forward to giving them a go.
Look for these on shelves soon, in sizes from 3/16″ to 1-1/8″.
I just wanted to drop everyone a quick note to apologize for the issue we had yesterday with the background advertisement bleeding into the main page and causing issues for commenters. This, of course, is what happens when the same guys who write about the tools also have to code the site. (I like to think I can be good at everything, but usually I just end up being mediocre at, well, everything.) Anyway, sorry for the inconvenience, and I wanted to let you know that it’s definitely something I did as opposed to anything caused by the advertising or the advertiser.
Everything should be working now, but I’d appreciate it if you’d let me know in comments if you run into any similar issues now. It’s working fine for me here in Chrome on OS X 10.7, but I’d be interested to know if it’s working on other platforms. Thanks!

I have a much older and much less nice-looking version of the square pictured above hanging around my shop. I use it primarily for metal work, but as I’m sure most Toolmongers will attest, once you start using a tool for one purpose, you’ll pretty much reach for it whenever you need to do anything similar. So mine gets a little woodworking use as well. The one pictured above showed up in an Irwin press release we received last week, and though I’m not sure it’s really updated or new, I still wanted to mention it because at around $8 it’s just a great thing to have around.
The Irwin model lists a couple of basic features, including a cast zinc body, black-accented markings on the stainless-steel blade, and a nice little bubble-level. But honestly, I’d say you could pretty much pick up any model that looks and feels sturdy and solid. Let’s put it this way: I don’t know where mine came from. I found it in my dad’s stuff, and I still use it. I can’t really picture buying a replacement, unless I happened to find a need for two.
Combination Square [Irwin]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

At first these snips from Fiskars smacked of gimmick. But the more I look, the more I think I might just want a set. The idea is simple: Fiskars claims they’ll cut just about anything you might find lying around the house, from paper to carpet to “light sheet metal.” It’s what a Swiss Army knife would look like if you started with a pair of scissors instead of a pocket knife.
To start with, the ShopBoss features nice TPR-padded grips, which look pretty comfortable. The scissor motion isn’t compound, but does feature a nice bend in the grips that looks like it’d give you at least a little bit of leverage when you squeeze them. The blades are titanium coated, too, which makes them hard as hell — and less likely to bend instead of cutting. One side of the blades is serrated, so hopefully you can saw your way through whatever you can’t simply cut. A spring in between the grips adds a little “umph” to your cutting motion as well. Finally, you’ll find a notched cutter in between the top of the grips for cutting wire and an exterior notch for cutting twine. (The exterior notch doubles as a bottle opener, you lush.)
They retail for $30, but we found ‘em pretty easily online for $20. Hell, I’m considering a pair for my home tool kit. It’d do a great job of replacing the “big knife” my dad always recommended, at least for most stuff around the house.
The ShopBoss [Fiskars]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

Remember those cool screwdrivers Lowe’s released last year? You know, the ones that always turned the screwdriver the same way no matter which way you turned the handle? It looks like they’re out in the open now, and True Value has created a competing set that you’ll see in stores in the next few months. TV calls it the “SwiftDriver.”
If you’re having trouble visualizing how this works, I feel your pain. I had to see one (like the one pictured, though not exactly the one pictured) to get the concept. You ratchet it back and forth just like you would a standard “ratcheting” screwdriver, but instead of simply moving in one direction and “ratcheting” in the other, these drivers switch directions internally such that the screw head continues to turn forward as you ratchet your hand back into position to turn again. It’d be a bit difficult to use in really high-torque situations, but it kicks ass for removing machine screws and such. They strike a nice balance between the ease of a full-on power tool and the hand-driven sensitivity of a plain ‘ole screwdriver.
True Value’s version will MSRP for $25 and will sell in a kit form containing the driver, 7 Phillips bits, 3 slotted bits, 3 square recess bits, 4 star bits, and 6 SAE nut drivers. Look for it on shelves in May.

It’s been a comedy of failures around my place lately, with the “new” wearing off the house and its contents and lots of little issues cropping up. It’s given me a lot of opportunity to think about the perfect way to buy products you expect to use for years to come — whether that’s a dishwasher, an air conditioning unit, or a high-end power tool. And I’ve discovered that no matter how I come at the problem, I almost always end up seeking a balance between price and features.
I know this seems pretty obvious, but looking a little deeper, it’s a lot harder to figure than one might suspect.
Take, for example, my dishwasher. The one that came with the house held up pretty well until about a year ago, when it started not getting all the crap off the dishes and generally being a pain in the ass. I put it back together a few times, fixing little issues and such, but recently it got so bad that we jokingly put a sign on it reading “please wash dishes before running dishwasher.” Doh.
And so the feature onslaught began. A basic “it washes dishes” dishwasher (placing it squarely ahead of the one I currently owned) started at around $300. Fancy models ranged upwards of $1,000. Where’s the price line? A little research uncovered that up to around the $500 point, quality ratings and available features increased steadily. But of the over-$500 models, some received great ratings and some less. Some even rated poorly on quality. My read: beyond the $500, I was buying features, not quality. So we bought right around that point — since we generally don’t care too much about the advanced features.
Power tools aren’t that different, at least in our experience. With some exceptions, of course, you generally see a pretty linear correlation between price and quality(/reliability) starting at the lowest-priced units up until some point — which we’ll call the “price/quality line” — at which the relationship breaks down. Some “above-the-line” units continue to follow the relationship, pricing higher and offering advanced features which increase reliability. But for the most part, above the line, you’re just buying individual features.
One other factor to consider with power tools: the job. What are you going to do with the tool? The biggest mistake we see tool consumers make is overestimating the needs of the jobs for which they’ll use their new tools. Bigger isn’t always better, and there are lots of downsides to buying a tool bigger and/or more powerful than you’ll need. For one, they’re more expensive. $150 to $200 will easily buy you a decent 18V drill/driver, but step up to a 36V model and you’ll pay twice that (or more). Sure, that extra torque lets you drill bigger holes, but how often do you need to drill a 1-3/4″ hole in 1/2″ steel? If the answer’s never, you probably wasted $150 or more on the 36V.
They’re heavier, too. If you drill that big-ass hole twice in the course of two years, but you drill smaller holes, say, 100 times, you lugged that sucker around 98 times unnecessarily. Consider, too, that you probably could have borrowed the big drill from a friend, or even rented one for less than your $150 difference.
Of course, this isn’t always the case, and I’m not suggesting that everyone should avoid buying large and powerful power tools. I’m just saying that it’s worth the time to examine one’s use cases before shelling out the dough. It’s a great way to uncover whether you want that monster tool because it’ll make your life better, or because Tim Allen made you think it’s cool.
So what do you think? What’s your thought process when you go tool (or dishwasher) shopping? How do you balance your needs and wants to buy tools that move you toward your project goals instead of holding you back from them?

In celebration of Earth Day, the LED light bulb that won a $10 million government competition to replace the standard 60-watt incandescent with something more green will go on sale at Home Depot — for $60. Ok, the manufacturer Phillips is “discounting” it to $50. Actually, Phillips claims that it’s working with other organizations to subsidize the bulb in order to get that price down to around $20-$30. But still: Is this cheap enough to encourage you to make the leap?
What sets the Phillips bulb apart from the many cheaper offerings already available is its output. While most LED bulbs deliver significantly less light than “equivalent” incandescents, the Phillips is reportedly pretty much interchangeable with a good ‘ole 60W. The Phillips light isn’t blue-white, either, but instead a more yellowish “warm” light like you’ve come to expect. So if these claims are true, it’s probably a lot easier sell for the family than the ones I’ve tried out, which made my room feel like a dimly-lit hospital.
Bottom line: I’m glad to see these available, and I hope that sooner or later we see them readily available in the $20 range, because that’s my price point. When I can pay $20 for a bulb that’ll (theoretically) last 25,000 hours and actually look pretty decent, I’ll go for it, replacing bulbs as they burn out around the house. But $50 is just way too much for one bulb.
Am I wrong?
Rebates to Cut Price of $60 Light Bulb [PhysOrg]

Last week IKEA announced that they’ll soon sell furniture featuring an “integrated HDTV.” That’s right: You can now buy a TV stand complete with TV, BluRay player, and stereo for around $950. That’s the 24″ version.
But wait a minute. The local BuyMore offers a decent-looking low-end 24″ HDTV (complete with 1080p display) for $170. (I’m not, by the way, recommending this TV. It’s just the first one I came across. I found lots of them in this price range.) Brand-name BluRay players start around $65. And even though the IKEA offering only offers 2.1 sound, you can buy a pretty nice smallish 5.1 system for under $200. I’m not a math genius, but that adds up to around $435. So you’re essentially paying $515 for a crappy melamine-covered MDF cabinet and the loss of stereo component selection.
Maybe it’s just me, but this screams DIY.
Seriously, how hard is it to mount a TV? A friend of mine in California attached a nice backboard to a small hutch with nothing but dimensional lumber and bits and pieces from the local big box — and ended up with a solution every bit as nice-looking at what you see here from IKEA. I haven’t asked, but I’d be willing to bet he spent less than $100 on the project altogether. And how hard is it to pick out a TV, stereo, and BluRay player? The materials make it sound like a nightmare — you know, “making sure they work together” and “plugging them in.” I’m sure it’s way easier than assembling the IKEA piece, yeah?
Ok, IKEA-bashing aside, there is a place for a wall-like HDTV mount that doesn’t involve carving up the wall. This is a common problem for renters of all flavors, and this looks like a good solution for it.
So how many of you have built something similar? How’d you solve the problem of stabilizing the TV, and what would you do differently next time?
IKEA Announces Furniture w/Integrated TV, Speakers, BluRay [ExtremeTech]

We try not to post too much snark here on Toolmonger, as that’s not really our style. But sometimes you just can’t help it. I caught this unremarkable BBQ grill over on Uncrate recently, and I almost dropped a brick in my shop chair: It’s probably the single best representation I’ve seen of the “manly men” craze and just how much some people will pay to pretend to be the kind of people most Toolmongers naturally are.
Let me explain.
The barrel BBQ is a classic tradition among people who aren’t loaded with cash but do have access to a source of junk barrels, various scrap metal, and a welder. It’s not a gourmet solution; it’s a solution of simplicity. You want to grill. You have stuff lying around and a way to put it together, so you fire up the tools, cut the barrel in half, weld in a few tabs to hold a grill, tack together a stand for it, and then promptly dump in some charcoal, start eating steaks, and stop thinking about the assembly.
Barrels, you see, don’t really make excellent grills. The volume is often too big to cook for small-to-medium parties, so you have to use an imperial assload of charcoal to get the thing hot enough to sear steak. They do make reasonable smokers, though a good smoker will incorporate other features, like a way to stoke the fire without removing the grill and all the food along with it. If you were going to actually design a grill, you’d start with something shaped a lot differently than a barrel.
So what do you get for $950? Special coatings? A stand made of lacewood and unobtainium? Nope. You get a painted barrel on a stand with a mahogany handle (ooh!) and a thermometer. Oh yeah, and you get to believe that your neighbors will think you’re the hard-core DIY type.
Here’s a thought: Go get a nice new (or re-conditioned) steel barrel for $50-$75. Pick up a grill from the local big box. Weld in a few tabs. Pick up $30 worth of 1″ square tube and tack together a stand. Make a handle out of scrap wood — or whatever you’ve got lying around. Grill. Enjoy. Spend the other $700 on, I don’t know, food. For $950, I could build a grill out of stuff literally lying around the shop right now and buy steaks and beers for everyone I know locally.
Ok, I’m done ranting. But seriously — really? It’s fascinating to me that these things sell.
BBQ for Men [lkooq design]

TM reader dgdaner asks: “I farm and ranch and keep the tools I use for fencing in a toolbox in the back of my fencing pickup. I’m too cheap to buy a full-size aluminum box that mounts permanently, so I use smaller (usually plastic) toolboxes that I can carry around. They stay out in the ND weather, and many times I go to use them I find the box half full of water. What’s your best suggestion for a replacement?”
He mentions that the best he’s seen (in his price range) was a Craftsman model which “didn’t use rivets to hold the hand on, so the lid is sealed.” We did a quick search (and looked around our local big box) and found a number of Stanley models that seem similar to the Craftsman the reader mentions. But I can think of at least one other possibility.
When I was a kid, my father brought me home a couple of smallish ammo cans, similar to the one pictured above. Not only are they quite sturdy, they’re also completely watertight. (They’ll often float if empty.) A quick Google search shows that you can buy similar cases online for around $15. There’s only one drawback: they’re a bit small for most tools.
On the other hand, I’ve seen identical cases sized for artillery shells. Even though the last time I checked the Army didn’t recycle them, I’m pretty sure they’re not available for sale — at least over the counter. But I bet you could find them pretty easily, and they’d make a great solution for the reader’s problem.
What do you think, though?
At no point in my life have I ever looked upon yard work with the same soft-focused, warm fuzzies that seem to inhabit many of my neighbors. They talk of string trimmers the same way I might describe a muscle car. For my part, I just want the least amount of hassle with the easiest care possible. Black & Decker sent me something that actually fits that bill in the 36v string trimmer. It cuts with the same grunt as a gas trimmer but without all the pulls, fuel mixing, and sore shoulders.
Before you assail me with righteous indignation, let me explain. No, the 36v LST136 is not as powerful as many of the gas-powered trimmers on the shelf today. Nor will it last as long at full tilt as a gas trimmer; this is true. What it can do as well and with the same or less hassle is trim the house and fence line and make sure the “project car” in the grass is all tidied up — on one charge and without help. We tested it on the highest setting and foot-tall grass, weeds, and all manner of roughage that had been growing for close to a month and it chopped it all fine.
On paper, the LST136 doesn’t miss much. There’s a 13-inch cut diameter that uses .065 diameter line and the battery features an LED counter with four indicator lights that represent 20 percent per light. This means that even when no light is visible there’s still a 20 percent charge left. When the 36v Li-ion battery is completely drained there’s only an hour of charge time to get it topped off. The curb weight winds up running close to 7 lbs. flat, which is a welcome statistic if you’ve ever lugged a heavier model around for any length of time.
Black & Decker says that on a fully charged battery, the unit should provide 25 mins. run time on regular speed or 8-10 mins. on the higher speed. There’s a also a chart on top of the handle that tells you basically the same thing: the higher the setting you run, the shorter the battery life will be. For our testing we were on setting “3″ for around the house and “6″ for the high weeds and grass. It lasted the entire way around the house and tackled the toughest weeds without missing a beat.
The trimmer obviously has all the assorted bells and whistles normally associated with electric string trimmers, such as a push button swivelhead and brace that turn the trimmer into edging mode. There’s also a telescoping feature built into the length of the pole that adjusts to any reasonably-sized user and helps in storage. The LST136 also isn’t a bump feed unit; it’s auto-feed. In fact, if you go around bumping it on the ground for more line, all you’ll end up doing is rat’s-nesting the feed spool.
We were just sure the LST136 was going to choke on tall grass and overgrowth, but it didn’t. We were positive that, like most of the battery-operated string trimmers out there, we’d run out of charge after about four feet of heavy work, but it plowed on. After the entire task even Toolmonger’s resident curmudgeon (my old man… who doesn’t like anything) said with grudging respect that the LST136 performed as well in basic yard applications (normal trimming and edging) as his Ryobi gas-powered unit.
As much as I hate yard work, this does the job around the homestead and makes short work of weeds if you move quickly and don’t linger on one spot and waste battery life. Is it worth $170 price tag? In some instances, like its intended suburban application, we’d say yes, completely worth it. If you’ve got a ranch to do or are a pro landscaper, no. Then again, if you’re already bought into the 36v Black & Decker system it’s a no-brainer. In any event, invest wisely and wait until your current rig packs up.
LST136 36v String Trimmer [Black & Decker]
Street Pricing [Google Products]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

Though a lot of people we’ve talked to don’t like the PS10 form factor — many seem happier with the drill-like PS20 pistol-grip style — I’ve always been a huge fan. The Bosch PS10 is hands down the best tool I’ve found for general light assembly and disassembly around the house and shop. For example, I used mine to quickly remove and re-drive about 30 machine screws to re-organize some 19″ rack mount gear in my studio. What makes the PS10 so great, IMO, is that the combination of its straight/90-degree shape and a trustworthy electronic clutch with soft-start — the trifecta for tasks like the ones I described above.
Admittedly, I’ve never really desired a drill-type chuck on the PS10, even though it does bear a strong physical resemblance to any number of small right-angle drills. But adding a chuck to the PS20 did wonders for its general usefulness. Does the same hold true of the PS11?
The specs seem to confirm that the PS11 is pretty much a PS10 + chuck. You get trigger-controlled variable speed (0-1,300 RPM) and torque maxes out at 101 in-lbs. — right in PS10 territory. But you also get a longer (and probably more comfortable) trigger on the PS11, a couple of small LED worklights, as well as a battery gauge and (most critically) a 3/8″ auto-lock chuck.
While I haven’t seen one of these in person yet, I suspect that (like the PS10) it’ll fall into a pretty narrow niche market — but will be the tool for that niche. If you’re constantly drilling small holes in relatively soft material in tight spaces, the PS11 would make a lot of sense. Now the big question: Who’s in that market? Maybe cable runners? Electricians? Help me out here. Is this something you’d use? How?
Expect to pay around $130-$150 for the -2A kit, which includes the tool, charger, two batteries, and a soft case — pretty much the same price as most of the PS-line of drivers.
PS11 12V MAX 3/8″ Angle Drill/Driver [Bosch]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

I know there’s a marketing blitz behind this, but I can’t help but enjoy the idea of a tool that survives without major functional changes for most of a century. Think about it: Since 1937, mankind went from early aviation to jet flight to the moon. Certainly the Model 77 has seen a bit of innovation over the years in terms of motor and material technology, but it remains essentially the same in shape and function — and it’s still a pretty popular model, despite lots of heavy competition.
I suppose a lot of this is due to the fact that the role the circular saw fills in the construction business isn’t as different as it might seem. We still build houses in much the same (basic) way we did 50+ years ago, at least in terms of framing. Most of the innovation seems to have come in materials or design, which has led to some significant improvements in blade technology. In the last few years we’ve seen significant improvements in circ saw blade design specifically, for a number of reasons: to handle the new materials, to increase battery life in cordless circs (since battery tech has finally caught up enough to make them somewhat feasible), and to improve life and performance. Note that the anniversary model 77 pictured above is loaded up with one of Skil’s titanium carbide blades.
Of course, a lot of folks prefer the simpler, cheaper, and certainly lighter sidewinder design. Sean, for example, is a big proponent of sidewinders, and I have to admit that I see his point. Even a small weight reduction makes a difference when you pick up a saw hundreds of times a day. When I built the shelves I wrote about a while back, I used two different circs to cut the shelf notches, and even after cutting only 60 notches, I could tell that one was heavier than the other. Then I looked up the difference: less than a pound.
We understand that the basic Model 77 still sells quite well. And if you happen to be in the market for one this year, Skil offers a “limited edition anniversary” model, which adds a custom black fleck paint finish, a chromed aluminum foot, a commemorative placard, and a commemorative blade. We found the anniversary model (the #MAG77-75 as opposed to the standard #SHD77M) for $190 online. Considering that the standard model sells for around $170, it might be worth a “what the hell” drop of a $20. I mean, you’re probably gonna be lookin’ at the thing for another 20-30 years, right?
One objection, though: despite creating a cool-looking custom product site and commissioning yet another corporate-themed chopper, we didn’t find much at all about the saw’s long history in the product literature. Skil, how ’bout a good story? We’re up for it!
Incidentally, what’s your favorite circ saw and why?
Skil 75th Anniversary Worm Drive [Custom Product Site/Skil]
Street Pricing [75th Anniversary Model]
Street Pricing [Standard 77]
Standard 77 Via Amazon [What’s This?]

I guess all the talk of expensive LED products this week got us wondering: Does the company known for offering drool-worthy-yet-astronomically-priced tools offer a simple worklight? Answer: yes. You’re looking at it. And it checks in at a whopping $175. (No, really.) So what exactly do you get for that much cash?
First of all, you get an array of six 3W LEDS which produce a clear, white light. According to Festool Owners Group reviews, the light is quite neutral, though one reviewer notes it’s “unpleasant to look at or get caught in the corner of your eye.” On the plus side, they also mention that it’s surprisingly bright — enough to brighten an entire room. They report good battery life, though not enough for a full “day” of use, at least on its internal battery. However, you can plug the light into the wall “for unlimited runtime” or even power it with various Festool batteries you might have for powering other Festool cordless tools.
So, the short version: It looks pretty cool. But seriously, $175 for a light? I just can’t see it.
SysLite LED Worklamp [FestoolProducts.com]

Imagine yourself as a marketing pro confronted with selling a new hand tool — like the aviation snips pictured above. You have to convey to people walking by in the big box aisle what makes your snips different from everyone else’s. But here’s the problem: snips look like, well, snips. Look at the picture above! They’re snips.
Of course, the designers would disagree. Whether you agree or disagree with their decisions, it’s clear from the press release that Wiss’ engineers put some thought into them. For example, let’s start with the cutter blades. Wiss added CNC-machined wave-pattern serrations on both blades to “provide more aggressive shearing action, higher resistance to tooth breakage, and longer blade life.” They also use an investment casting process — a relatively old process known for its increased accuracy over sand casting.
The feature list continues: a “free-floating pivot bolt design” reportedly spreads side loads more evenly across the bolt, increasing life over threaded-bolt designs. Wiss also makes the snips out of valve-grade steel.
Granted, we haven’t seen these snips in person, so we can’t tell you for sure whether or not this effort translates into a kick-ass product or not. But we are pleased to see the information included in the press release. You’d be shocked how often we get press releases that don’t tell us anything at all about a product — and certainly nothing about why the company made the design choices they made. Sometimes we’re lucky enough to get to talk to the people behind the product, and each time we seem to uncover something really interesting, even when the tools seem pretty ordinary.
So here’s the big question: What makes one pair of aviation snips better than another? Personally, I suspect that the floating bolt would make a difference for me. I’ve owned pivoting tools (pliers, cutters, etc.) that bit the dust due to a threaded bolt. But what about the serrations? I checked, and none of the snips I currently own are serrated.
Wiss HVAC Snips [Warning: PDF Link]
Street Pricing [Google]
Via Amazon [What’s This?]

FOD sucks. (That’s Foreign Object Damage, or what happens when you leave something behind when you’re working on something critical like an airplane or a race car. Wrenches, you know, can really muck up operating jet engines.) For years, shops that work on such sensitive gear have gone to great lengths to assure that every tool that leaves the toolbox makes it back home. When I was a kid and I’d visit my dad at work (he worked in aircraft maintenance), I’d see lots of tool silhouettes –pegboards with tool shapes painted on them in bright colors so you’d see color only when the tool normally stored there was missing.
Well, technology marches on. CribMaster, a company that sells all sorts of automated inventory management products, teamed up with Proto to offer professional-quality tools with integrated RFID tags. By mounting tag readers at various choke points (like the door to a hangar, for example) computer systems can automatically read the passage of the tools and mark them in the system as checked out or checked back in. The new brand: ProtoID.
What I wonder is how long it’ll be until this technology trickles down to home use. Certainly there’s a place for it in the professional world, and integrating the tags into the tool itself rather than simply attaching them must be sound pretty attractive to corporate buyers. And this system can’t be nearly as expensive as it would’ve been even a few years ago, which means it might make sense for less-sensitive businesses which are worried about theft or misplacement of tools. But if you could afford it, this would be badass for keeping your tool from falling into the neighbor’s coveting paws. Or getting left in the upstairs bathroom after you repaired a toilet.
Anyway, if you’re interested in how the system works, you can find out more on the company’s website, below. If you click through, be sure to check out the links along the left side of the page where you’ll find everything from toolboxes which automatically check out/in tools, software to handle the record keeping, and even some tool vending machines.
RFID Embedded ProtoID Tools [CribMaster]

With the introduction of the green-batteried li-ion line a few years ago, we became fans of Ryobi’s power tools. While the early (blue) One+ line pretty much defined (in our opinion, at least) the price-cheap and quality-cheap low-buck tool line, the updated li-ion versions flat blew us away. We thought the li-ion One+ drill compared favorably to models offered at twice the price; you could actually pick up a whole multi-piece kit for under $200. That’s not bad. Of course, Ryobi has always been in the garden tool market as well, so we’re interested to see what comes of Ryobi’s new 40V li-ion line, which applies most of the same technology to a battery pack large enough to power higher-draw tools, like the chain saw pictured above.
The specs look pretty encouraging. Despite looking larger in photos, that’s a 12″ bar in the picture — just about right for the kind of small trimming and pruning jobs it’s likely to see in its target market: the home. And while gas-powered saws will probably always dominate the heavy-duty use market, there’s a lot to be said for the low-maintenance convenience of electric for the homeowner, who won’t want to keep gas and oil (or mix) on hand and re-adjust the damn saw every time they pick it up.
The line launches sometime this summer, so we’ll update you again when we know more about actual street pricing and/or get a chance to take a look at these in person. As with all such tools — and especially the lower-priced ones — the test will be how well these hold up compared to their more expensive rivals. What do you think? Would you consider trying out a Ryobi string trimmer? Or lawn mower?
The 40V Garden Tool Line [Ryobi]
The 40V Chainsaw [Ryobi]
I often wonder if the level of common sense we have is directly proportionate to our dependence on others to think for us. I’m inclined to believe that, in this case, whoever made this picture is having some fun with us. Then again, I saw a pen attached to the desk at the bank the other day with a ball chain that had a breakover clasp in the middle of it and had to think to myself that it was the worst security device ever.
I’m not sure what kind of demo is going on here, but were you to steal this the joke’s on you. The Bosch model kicks the crap out of it and you’ll run out of charge before you can show it to your friends — also, no charger. Then again it did hang around long enough for someone to take the pic, so maybe everyone knew that already.
Sears Product Security [There I Fixed It]
Over the last few years I’ve developed a love for making furniture out of wood. I’ve built almost every kind of furniture one might put in a traditional home, incuding tables. I’m not a pro woodworker and certainly not a master of anything, but I’ve felt for the last few years like I had a good bead on things…until I saw this DB Fletcher automated table.
I have at least heard of Jupe tables that expand by hand and have inserts that lock in place. The thought of building one had always lingered in the back of my brain somewhere between building a deck and learning to play guitar. However, after seeing the automated smoothness of the DB Fletcher version I think my jaw dropped and all aspirations of making the ultimate cool table dropped a hundred fold. It’s genius — pure, brain-bending genius. There are a few drawbacks to this version though; DB Fletcher only operates in England from what we can tell, and we’re guessing that table is depressingly expensive.
Fletcher Automated Capstan Table [YouTube]
Jupe Style Expanding Table [YouTube]

MAC Tools announced five new automotive specialty tools recently, including the hammer you see pictured above, which they claim is designed specifically for coaxing auto interiors into place. At first glance, it looks pretty much like the rubber mallet Sean and I have used for years for the same purpose. And honestly, that’s pretty much what it is… with two slight differences. First, the handle is a little longer and more grippy than most of the mallets I keep around the shop, and second, MAC added a third rubber tip on the end of the handle.
While we might poke fun at a pro-line specialty tool that bears exceedingly close resemblance to a dime-store standby, we can definitely attest to the handiness of a soft rubber mallet for putting dashboards back together. If you recall our fight with the old F150 that I (thankfully) no longer own, then you’ve seen at least one application where we hammered away to get everything to line up right. The trick is finding a mallet that’s soft enough to avoid plastic damage, yet hard enough to actually force the part in place. If the MAC hammer is indeed right in that hardness zone, it could be a winner. Of course, it’s damn difficult to tell from a picture.
The other tools released at the same time include a specialty brake spring tool, a brake spring plier set, some air filter cleaners, and a Ford Triton engine insert kit. For additional information on any of these — or to get your grubby mitts on one of these hammers — you’ll need to talk to your friendly MAC truck operator. I guess for now we’ll just eke by with our carefully selected partially-hardened-from-age-to-the-perfect-hardness cheap-ass rubber mallet.

And no, they don’t mean the Miami kind. The long-time vise manufacturer is holding a sweepstakes in which they’ll select their favorite story and bestow its teller with five grand. All “qualified” entrants will receive a “free Wilton C-clamp.” We’re not sure what “qualified” means, but after our quick read of the press release, it looks like you just have to be over 21.
Some of the stuff you’ll be competing with for the grand prize includes a guy from Canton, Ohio, who’s owned his Wilton for 40 years and a gunsmith from Georgia who scavenged his off the rear bumper of a service truck.
So hey: Story = free clamp. The sweepstakes closes September 14th, and you can find out more about the whole thing at the link below.
Submit Your Story [Wilton]